Bayonne, version Bonnat

Ingres, Michelangelo, El Greco, Van Dyck, David, Goya... One could name-drop endlessly with this collection, which art historian Pierre Rosenberg described as “the most beautiful collection between Paris and Madrid.” With more than 7,000 works, from Antiquity to the 20^th century, including more than 2,500 works listed in the Louvre Museum's inventories, the Bonnat-Heleu Museum is the Louvre Museum's largest depository in France. Today, after almost 15 years of closure, including nine years of renovation work (carried out by the BLP & Associés agency) at a total cost of €25 million, the museum can display more than 1,000 works, 95% of which have been restored. In other words, those who knew it in the past will not recognize it at all. Even Ingres' La Baigneuse looks much better. Natural light floods in everywhere, openings have been added, spaces have been preserved or enlarged, the neighboring building (a former school) has been annexed, the mosaics in the atrium have been restored, and everything has gained in fluidity, yet the spirit of the place remains: everywhere, in each of the rooms, you can feel the soul of this man, a star portraitist in his day and a skilled collector, Léon Bonnat from Bayonne, who made such an impressive bequest to the city. Velasquez, Gustave Doré, Rubens, Dürer... Léon Bonnat, of course, and Paul Helleu (who inspired Marcel Proust's character Elstir in In Search of Lost Time, so much so that, although somewhat forgotten today, he was a major figure in his day), who in turn made a significant bequest. We wander around, take a step back, stop, turn around and stand transfixed in the very impressive Room 13, which, on two levels, deals with the political upheavals of the 19^th century. Before leaving, we salute El Greco's very enigmatic Duke of Benavente, just there on the left.

5 rue Jacques-Laffite, 64100 Bayonne

Allez Hop, we're giving in to temptation chez Ronan Lagadec & Cyril Pouil

Monsieur Txokola's Bayonne shop is right next to the museum. But above all, he's the one who came up with the idea for this simple but delicious and affordable café, located in the heart of the museum with tables on the large patio and on the street. Savory tarts, salads... and cookies that will have you coming back for more...

Allez Hop, let's indulge again, chez Corentin Poirier

Il a été meilleur apprenti de France, premier chef pâtissier à intégrer le prestigieux programme de la Villa Albertine et c’est dans une de ces jolies rues de Bayonne, tout près du marché, qu’il a imaginé, avec sa compagne Léa, un charmant salon de thé qui régale du petit-déj au goûter avec des assiettes extrêmement gourmandes (Gozo, gourmand en basque) et presque addictives. Ici aussi, on se damne pour les cookies, y compris celui sans gluten !

8 rue Port de Castets, 64100 Bayonne

Allez Hop, let's indulge again, chez Maxime Chentouf

A chef trained in Michelin-starred tables, Maxime Chentouf has opened a counter-style restaurant on the banks of the Nive in Bayonne. With an open kitchen, constant dialogue, locally sourced ingredients, and daring dishes, Germaine, which is only open in the evening, is shaking things up...

Five-course menu, €58