Hamburg, of Steel and Sea Spray

Hamburg may well have been born of a mermaid. Its love affair with the water plays out in the shifting moods of the Elbe, which empties into the North Sea some 120 kilometres downstream. Its sometimes dramatic tides orchestrate the endless ballet of tankers and container ships arriving from distant oceans. Here, the city's heart beats to the rhythm of towering cranes, whose rugged silhouettes have become part of Hamburg's singular beauty. There is no better place to take it all in than from the Elbphilharmonie, a ship-like concert hall crowned with waves of glass by Herzog & de Meuron. Rising above the river, it sets the tone for HafenCity, the city's newest district, while breathing fresh life into neighbouring Speicherstadt, the UNESCO-listed "City of Warehouses", a maze of red-brick buildings where spices, tea, coffee and Persian rugs were once unloaded directly from the canals. A handful of rug merchants still hang their kilims from the windows. Water, always. A short stroll away lies the Inner Alster Lake and Jungfernstieg, the promenade where young women of marriageable age once paraded long before the days of the internet or Tinder. But enough introductions.

Following the water

Pull on your swimsuit and head to Eppendorf's Supper Club, where you can hire a canoe, kayak, stand-up paddleboard or pedal boat. Gliding through the canals, a different map of Hamburg unfolds beneath weeping willows and the calls of swans. In this elegant neighbourhood, stately villas with idyllic gardens embody a discreet kind of luxury, true to the city's Protestant heritage—although behind the garage doors often hides a collection worthy of a Porsche showroom, from brand-new models to cherished classics. Without even leaving your boat, stop by Café Canale, where an Apfelschorle or an Aperol Spritz, depending on the hour, is passed through a window straight to your paddleboard. There is usually a queue of SUPs waiting their turn before it's time to return the paddles. One U-Bahn ride later, the atmosphere changes completely. On match day, St. Pauli echoes to a thunderous chorus of You'll Never Walk Alone rising from the FC St. Pauli stadium. The club may drift between divisions, but it boasts millions of supporters around the world. In the streets, fans proudly wear the club's famous brown shirts emblazoned with a skull and crossbones—a nod to pirates, Robin Hood and the punk spirit. One of the first football clubs to take a public stand against racism, fascism and homophobia back in the 1980s, FC St. Pauli perfectly embodies the neighbourhood's alternative soul. As does the imposing 50-metre-high St. Pauli Bunker, recently transformed into a hotel topped with a spectacular rooftop garden.

Feet in the sand

Just a stone's throw away lies the legendary Reeperbahn, with its stories of sailors, dockers, prostitutes, vice—and music. It was here that The Beatles honed their craft before conquering the world. Today, the clubs still line up door to door, from electro venues to old-school rock bars. The following day, slow the pace at Strandperle in Altona, stretched out in a deckchair with your feet in the sand while the port's giant cranes continue their hypnotic dance across the river. For a moment, life feels wonderfully unhurried.

Allez Hop off to bed, chez Alexander Garbe

"A Grande Dame in sneakers." That's how Alexander Garbe likes to describe his first hotel (he also owns the Strandhotel Blankenese, offering a more seaside-inspired take on Hamburg), nestled among the grand villas of Hamburg's discreetly wealthy residents. Built in the 19th century, this Grande Dame has a style entirely her own: elegant yet relaxed. White on the outside, she reveals shades of green and blue within, dressing herself with effortless grace (…) Read more

Allez Hop off to bed, chez Alexander Garbe (again)

Far from the noise of the world, this address offers a delightful escape within your escape. It makes the perfect complement to a stay at stilwerk Heimhude, closer to the city centre. Here, in Blankenese, life moves at an almost seaside pace. This 15-room hotel overlooks the waves of the Elbe and the slow passage of enormous cargo ships, all wrapped in soft, soothing colours.

Address : Strandweg 13, 22587 Altona

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Allez Hop off to the table, chez Johan Lindloff

In the lively district of Altona, chef Johan Lindloff set out to prove that vegetarian and vegan cuisine could win over Hamburgers—and visitors alike. As the website explains, Maquis is a nod to the French Resistance, symbolising a challenge to the established order. His tasting menu offers two options for every course. Needless to say, the ingredients are local and seasonal. Behind its long picture window, the dining room embraces understated minimalism. The only downside? The wait between courses can sometimes feel rather long.

Tasting menu: from €60 for three courses, plus €35 for an alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverage pairing.

Address : Thedestraße 2, 22767 Altona

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Allez Hop toff o the table, chez Koral Elci

From his native Turkey, Koral Elci has kept a deep affection for Mediterranean flavours and hospitality. In Hamburg, his adopted home since 1999, the industrial engineer swapped technical drawings for open flames and saucepans. Founder of the mobile kitchen Kitchen Guerilla, he has hosted television cooking shows, launched countless pop-ups and opened several restaurants. For years, he dreamed of creating an "urban canteen". His Table dot—a playful nod to the French table d'hôte—takes inspiration from the workers' canteens of Istanbul (…) Read more

Allez Hop for an Apfelschorle at Café Canale

This charming little café is best known for its waterside takeaway service. Cappuccino or beer, tarte flambée or fish sandwich—you can enjoy it all aboard your pedal boat or stand-up paddleboard.

Address : Poelchaukamp 7, 22301 Hamburg-Nord

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Allez Hop and unwind at Strandperle

A true beach atmosphere at this beloved kiosk, where deckchairs spill onto the sand. Strandperle is a Hamburg institution. Swimming in the Elbe is forbidden because of the strong currents, but watching the container ships glide by is entertainment enough.

Address : Övelgönne 60, 22605 Altona.

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Allez Hop and listen to the Elbphilharmonie

Concert tickets are notoriously difficult to secure, but the experience—and the price—is more than worth it. The Grand Hall delivers astonishingly pure acoustics, with music that seems almost to float through the air. Even without attending a performance, a visit to the Elbphilharmonie is essential.

Address : Platz d. Deutschen Einheit 4, 20457 Hamburg.

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Allez Hop to the top of the St. Pauli Bunker

For decades, Hamburg struggled to decide what to do with this colossal relic of the Second World War. Standing 50 metres high, with walls three metres thick and once capable of sheltering up to 25,000 people, it stood too close to surrounding homes to be demolished. Instead, it has been transformed into a lush, green landmark. Today, a gently sloping walkway leads to a rooftop garden with sweeping views over the city and St. Pauli's football stadium. Inside are the Reverb by Hard Rock Hamburg hotel and several cafés.

Address : Feldstraße 66/5, 20359 Hamburg.

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Allez Hop and paddle at Supper Club Hamburg

Since the Covid years, Hamburgers have rediscovered their love of the water. On sunny summer days, the canals can even see traffic jams of stand-up paddleboards and canoes. Before or after hiring a SUP, canoe, kayak or pedal boat from Supper Club, settle in for a drink or a bite to eat among the city's stylish young crowd—and their parents. Seasonal opening.

Address : Isekai 13, 20249 Hamburg-Nord.

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Allez Hop and sail to Heligoland

Hamburg is best experienced from the water, and its ferries are part of the adventure. Continue downstream and, after a three-hour-and-forty-five-minute catamaran crossing, a tiny one-square-kilometre island rises from the North Sea: Heligoland, Germany's only offshore island. Flattened during the Second World War and rebuilt afterwards, it is sometimes nicknamed "Germany's Brasília" for its post-war architecture. It is also a legendary duty-free destination and a seaside retreat shared with colonies of seals. Go as much for the journey up the Elbe as for the island itself.

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Getting there: with Helgoline

Allez Hop and find out more

Hamburg Tourist Board

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