In Toulon, gazing toward Hyères

Taking a cable car in a seaside town is not the first thing that comes to mind. Yet it is the best way to get acquainted with Toulon. Step into the charming little red cabin, with its distinctly sixties flair and redesigned by Patrick Jouffret, and suddenly you feel transported to Rio. In just a few vertiginous minutes, as the scents of garrigue rise around you, the Mediterranean bursts into view. Below, the city stretches between sea and mountain, almost like a valley. A 1923 drawing shows a handsome bare-chested young man in a sailor’s cap: it is Jean Radiguet, sketched by Cocteau on Toulon’s harbour. Back then, this great naval port—an earthly paradise for the wayward Parisians of the 1930s—was dotted with brothels catering to both sexes and opium dens. The postcard image of a city overrun by sailors in red pom-pom caps has long since faded. Toulon has stretched its limbs and awakened. Cities that have spent years neglecting themselves often become vast playgrounds for urban planners and architects. Toulon has reached that stage of the Monopoly board where the pieces are being moved and the perspectives redrawn. Haussmannian avenues on one side, cool Provençal alleyways on the other: so long overlooked that it was difficult to define, this supposed ugly duckling has finally come out of its shell. Today, visitors wander the lanes from artisan shops to creative studios, linger at café terraces with an Italian flavour, and savour a growing culinary scene, led by places such as Shanael, which earned its first Michelin star only a few months after opening.

Hyères and its palms

Fifteen minutes by motorway—or ten by train—and the atmosphere changes completely. Toulon’s neighbour, framed by hills and mountains, unfolds kilometres of sandy beaches and protected hidden coves. In town, you lose yourself among exotic gardens, reminders of the British presence, before wandering through the medieval quarter along the Parcours des Arts. This urban trail weaves between art galleries, design boutiques and beautifully restored heritage buildings. Will you stay at Le Provençal, facing the sea, or at Chez Lilou, whose chef and lively evenings have become fixtures of Hyères nightlife? If you rent the enchanting Villa Almanarre, be sure to have lunch at Le Mérou, the panoramic restaurant of the Musée du Niel, before catching the shuttle to Porquerolles and marvelling at the Fondation Carmignac. Naturally, a visit to Villa Noailles is a must. By extending its Design Parade festival across both cities, it was the first institution to reconnect Toulon and Hyères, now united as sister cities of creativity. This year marks the festival’s tenth anniversary, and throughout the summer exhibitions unfold across both venues. Yet another reason to discover this sun-drenched duo and fall for this corner of the Var—less glamorous than Saint-Tropez perhaps, but “Provençal” in the very best sense of the word.

Allez Hop au lit chez Damien & Benjamin Piffet, leurs compagnes Julie Liger & Lene Arentsen

Some come for the allure of adding their names to the long list of illustrious guests. Since its acquisition in 1951 by Marius Michel—the grandfather and former head chef of the Lido’s kitchens—Le Provençal has drawn the glitterati who holiday on this particular stretch of the French Riviera, from nearby neighbour Marie-Laure de Noailles to Andrée Putman, via John Galliano and the fashion crowd (Hyères being home to both its fashion festival and Design Parade). Others come for the incomparable setting (…) Continue reading

Allez Hop au lit chez Alexandre & Céline Lafourcade

In the Lafourcade family, who would you like to call on? Alexandre, the son, a specialist in restoring exceptional residences? Dominique, the mother, a star landscape designer? Céline, the wife, who masterfully orchestrates the renovation projects? Or the daughters, involved in decoration and events? The parents, who divide their time between the family’s historic Saint-Rémy office and their Hyères residence, could not resist the allure of this irresistibly charming house. The raw material already had tremendous panache (…) Continue reading

Allez Hop au lit chez David Pirone

Entrepreneur David Pirone, known for his festive restaurant Marais Plage and his designer hotel La Reine Jane, had his heart set on the city center for his third project in Hyères. True to his aesthetic tastes, he commissioned Kim Haddou and Florent Dufourcq to restore the resort atmosphere of one of these grand, opulent hotels, created on the French Riviera by the English at the end of the 19th century. Brunch on the patio or a drink at the bar, by the fireplace and rattan sofas, reissues of pieces by Gabriella Crespi (…) Continue reading

Allez Hop à table chez Anthony Denon

It wouldn't be very smart to describe Toulon as a gastronomic desert, out of consideration for the two or three restaurants that are making an effort, but let's be honest: the gourmet scene quickly becomes repetitive, prompting diners to head for the hinterland or Saint-Tropez. Finally, here is a restaurant ready to turn the tide. Having learned his craft under the watchful eye of Christophe Saintagne, Jean-François Piège, and Alain Ducasse, and after shining at Le Meurice and the Hôtel Burgundy, Anthony Denon was destined (…) Continue reading

Allez Hop let’s indulge chez Laurent Gabbanini

If you do not want to arrive empty-handed at your friends’ next dinner party, there is no hesitation required: stop by this tiny boutique just outside the entrance to Toulon’s handsome Art Deco market halls. Small in size, immense in inspiration. The concept was dreamed up by Laurent Gabbanini, a former high-level athlete, who set out to create an elegant new pastry speciality. It vaguely resembles a millefeuille—slender and elongated, hence its name—but looks more like a delicate shell of sweet pastry, crisp and wafer-thin, concealing a melting centre of soft biscuit, praline and whipped ganache. Can a cloud be both crunchy and melt-in-the-mouth at the same time? The answer comes in the form of eight flavours, created fresh each day by Clément Dupont, the talented and exacting young pastry chef behind this irresistibly addictive dessert.

11, Rue Jean-Aicard

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Allez Hop let’s indulge chez Sarah et Nicolas Fauvel

No eggs, no cream, yet an incomparable creaminess. Sarah’s secret lies in orchid powder, which gives her ice creams their remarkably light texture while making them three times less sweet than traditional recipes. Originally from Syria, she excels at crafting ashta ice cream flavoured with pistachio sap and orange blossom—a true invitation to travel. The sorbets are equally enticing, packed with fruit (between 50 and 75 per cent) and offering the perfect refreshment on scorching summer days. And for those wishing to take indulgence a step further, Sarah masterfully blends Middle Eastern tradition with contemporary creativity through a range of airy pastries and delicate desserts. Enjoy them on the terrace of her charmingly girly little boutique, perched on the edge of the famous Cours Lafayette market—another feast, this time for the eyes.

34 rue Paul-Lendrin

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Allez Hop, let's explore the musée du Niel

On the magical Giens Peninsula, Jean-Noël Drouin chose a villa built in 1962 to showcase his collection. Its transformation, entrusted to Vialla Pouliquen Architects, has given rise to a striking three-storey geometric structure, encircled by projecting balconies overlooking Le Niel, a charming hidden harbour, and offering exceptional sea views towards the island of Porquerolles. Dedicated to the artistic movements of the second half of the twentieth century—particularly post-war non-figurative and abstract art in France—this intimate venue presents thematic exhibitions that capture the vitality of an extraordinary period of creativity. A setting poised between light and shade, where visitors fall as much for the exhibitions as for the spectacular surroundings.

6 route du Port-du-Niel, Giens

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Allez Hop let’s explore La Villa Carmignac

Treating yourself to this former farmhouse—featured in Jean-Luc Godard’s Pierrot le Fou—set in the heart of a national park with sweeping sea views, is undeniably something special. In the 1980s, architect Henri Vidal transformed the farm into a villa. While attending the wedding of one of Vidal’s daughters, Édouard Carmignac fell under the spell of the estate and began imagining it as a place dedicated to the arts. That dream has since become reality, and all it takes is a 15-minute crossing between Hyères and Porquerolles to experience it for yourself. The farmhouse and its 2,000 square metres of exhibition space blend seamlessly into the landscape. Major exhibitions are staged here, while a sculpture-filled garden leads visitors to a hidden restaurant nestled beneath the pine trees, serving memorable lunches in an exceptional setting.Adresse : Piste de la Courtade, Île de Porquerolles

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Allez Hop, let’s check it out !

Toulon and Hyères Tourist Information Offices

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Design Parade

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