Let’s Head Out to Sea in Saint-Malo

Between two conversations about the trade winds, there is another Saint-Malo to discover. Not entirely breizh, perhaps, but thoroughly sea-soaked, where new addresses sit alongside slipways and granite houses. Leave the village behind, let yourself drift towards Saint-Servan, find a table in Intra-Muros, walk as far as Rochebonne and even Rothéneuf. If the race is a good reason to come, the city itself offers plenty of reasons to stay a little longer.

Intra-Muros: a neighbourhood canteen, a few boutiques and some very good tables

Let’s start in Intra-Muros. Just a stone’s throw from the bustle of the quays, slightly tucked away, Bougeotte sets the tone: market-fresh cooking, a seasonal menu and that extra something that makes you want to linger. Those who used to frequent Soul Kitchen in Paris’s 18th arrondissement will find Isabelle and Paul here.

Then wander. The ramparts can wait. A handful of lovely boutiques are packed into a very small area. For teenagers and streetwear fans, Miki feels like a treasure-filled bazaar, bringing together everything currently shaking up fashion. Just a few steps away, Mitsuko and Le 29 offer another take on the wardrobe. Le 29 also makes room for vintage, as does Fish and Fripes.

At the end of the day, head back towards the sea. On warmer days, Bain des Dames is a good excuse to watch the sun go down over beetroot hummus and mackerel rillettes. In autumn, keep the appointment with the light, even if the aperitif has to happen somewhere else. Nature knows what it’s doing.

For dinner, three addresses, three moods: Méson Chalut, for generous, local and sustainable cuisine of remarkable precision; Doma for dinner with good friends; and Betton Fils for something a little more romantic. When it’s time to close your eyes, Chateaubriand, a well-positioned classic, lets you stay within the walls. Some rooms look out to sea — enough to keep the horizon firmly in view.

Solidor: wandering around Saint-Servan

Different neighbourhood, different atmosphere. Around Solidor, there is the tower, the view towards Dinard and the slipways where locals from Saint-Servan still go about their daily business. In autumn, come mainly to walk, following the rhythm of the tides. The route takes you towards Port des Bas-Sablons, where the sailboats still make you dream of setting off.

Then head back up Rue Ville-Pépin, Saint-Servan’s main shopping street. At Les Fromagers Malouins, pick up what you need for an impromptu picnic if the weather plays along. Otherwise, there are plenty of tables to choose from. For lunch, Boui-Boui, a canteen where seasonal cooking takes on a Cambodian accent. Homemade food, short supply chains and just enough of a twist to make you want to come back.

For dinner, Bouliche serves elegant, varied plates in a warm setting, with a wine list that readily keeps the conversation going. Once well fed and thoroughly infused with sea air, drop your bags at Maison Lacase. A small-scale address with a seriously impressive breakfast.

From the Sillon to Rochebonne: a healthy dose of fresh air

In Saint-Malo, there are all kinds of seas: the open ocean, coves, slipways, sheltered bays and beaches exposed to every wind. While the race village is busy talking about crossing the Atlantic, you can already get your own dose of open air on foot.

Start with the Sillon. Saint-Malo’s great beach is made for long walks, from the ramparts all the way to Rochebonne. The landscape changes with the tide, the light and the wind. One day, the sea leaves behind a vast expanse of sand; the next, it comes almost up to the seawall. Here, it decides the schedule.

Once you reach Rochebonne, stop at Denise for a bite. A little further up, La Malouine des Indes offers a timeless wardrobe, made in India with a deft eye for detail. Beyond it, Plage du Minihic offers another perspective on the city and its ramparts. Continue the walk if the tide allows, keeping one eye on the time: in Saint-Malo, the way out is not always the way back.

La Varde and Rothéneuf: the boats may be far away, but the sea remains

To extend the escape, head for Pointe de la Varde. The coastal path runs between rocks, small beaches and wide-open views. Walk, stop, start again. Further on, the Rothéneuf estuary changes character throughout the day. At low tide, the sea retreats to reveal a vast expanse of sand; at high tide, the water returns and the landscape tightens around it.

For the best view, gain some height. The walk from La Guimorais, in Saint-Coulomb, leads towards Pointe du Meinga. Open sea on one side, the estuary on the other. For families, Villa Sainte-Odile in Rothéneuf makes an excellent base for exploring this stretch of coastline. Shoes by the door, a meal to prepare together and the sea as the thread running through the whole stay.

The sea.