Valais, from Mountain Peaks to Valleys

The Train Life

6:15 a.m., Paris Gare de Lyon; 1:30 p.m., hiking on a trail through a Valais forest. The Swiss are champions when it comes to rail travel. Hardly a place or valley is without a train connection, and in almost all case trains leave and arrive on time.

It is therefore the preferred means of transport for travelling from Paris — or elsewhere — to Geneva or Lausanne, and from there choosing a connection to the towns that line the Rhône Valley, whose source lies a little further upstream: Martigny, Sion, Sierre, Brig…

From these towns, other trains provide access to different valleys, some climbing towards the peaks. Take, for example, the train linking Monthey with the village of Champéry, equipped with large windows that allow passengers to enjoy the magnificent scenery. Travelling along a single track, it moves at an unhurried pace, passing private homes and their small gardens, so close that you could almost reach out and touch them.

Resorts with Discreet, Unspoilt Charm

Valais is Switzerland away from the clichés, with mountain villages that — with a few exceptions — have little in common with the glamorous, upmarket ski resorts. In Nendaz, which lives in the shadow of Verbier (and is all the better for it), luxury is almost invisible and the charm remains intact, as at the brand-new Nînda Hotel. Beyond winter activities, the Valais mountains can be enjoyed all year round, with mountain hikes and walks along the bisses — the traditional irrigation channels that carry water from mountain streams to meadows, vineyards and orchards — as well as mountain biking, which is everywhere.

Just above the small town of Monthey, Les Cerniers attracts an international clientele thanks to Whitepods, an unusual accommodation estate featuring geodesic domes and contemporary chalets, where guests come to recharge their batteries with family or colleagues on corporate retreats.

Champéry is one of the Swiss gateways to the Franco-Swiss Portes du Soleil ski area. Yet, as the cable-car operator points out, it rains quite often here! The reason is the high mountain ranges that trap the clouds — but this is also why the landscape is so lush and green, dominated by the majestic Dents du Midi. Of the historic Grand Hôtel Pension Dent du Midi, which opened in 1857, only an old outbuilding remains, itself converted into a hotel. Champéry, however, has retained much of its original charm. In 1939, Switzerland's first cable car in French-speaking Switzerland was installed here. Today it has been replaced by a modern version: a large red-and-white cabin that takes less than five minutes to reach an altitude of 2,000 metres, where numerous mountain-bike trails (some fairly challenging) and hiking routes await.

For those who prefer to take it easy — or for anyone whose sporting efforts have worked up an appetite — the restaurant at the cable-car station serves generous, delicious, entirely homemade dishes, as well as a very popular Sunday brunch. All this comes with no extra charge for the huge terrace and spectacular views.

Apricots and Wine

Valais is not all about mountains. The valley floor and the slopes that surround it are equally fascinating, especially for lovers of wine and gastronomy. The dry, sunny climate and sandy soil are ideal for growing fruit, particularly apricots, whose orchards stretch as far as the eye can see along the banks of the Rhône. Harvested from June to August, the Valais apricot is a source of national pride and has been grown in the region since the 19th century. This tradition has given rise to another emblematic — though increasingly old-fashioned — product: abricotine, an apricot brandy protected by an AOP designation and produced exclusively in Valais. The Morand distillery, established in Martigny in 1889, continues this tradition, producing abricotine as well as its famous Williamine, a speciality created exclusively by the house and made from Valais pears.The distillery is open to visitors. And although fruit brandies are consumed less and less, the company has successfully reinvented itself by creating a wide range of fruit syrups, made either from pure juice or concentrates, and distributed throughout Switzerland.

The region's other great product is wine. If the names Fendant, Petite Arvine, Païen, Cornalin or Humagne mean nothing to you, that's perfectly normal: very little Valais or Swiss wine in general is exported. Production costs are high, making it impossible to compete with the major wine-producing countries next door, while the domestic market is more than sufficient to absorb the entire production. This is therefore a wonderful opportunity to discover these wines, which are said to be expensive at the lower end of the range, but reasonably priced when it comes to the finest cuvées.

For a quick, comprehensive introduction to Valais winemaking, there is one obvious stop: Les Celliers de Sion. Admittedly tourist-oriented, but extremely well designed, it brings together two major wine-growing families and offers an educational tour that begins in a contemporary building before continuing among the vineyards, with stops for wine and food tastings. It is here that you truly appreciate just how difficult it is to cultivate vines on these steep slopes.

Alternatively, visitors can choose to explore smaller producers, such as Cave Colline de Daval, where the Caloz family has been producing wine — and apricots — for five generations. Benoît Caloz is a wonderful tasting host and an excellent opportunity to discover a very comprehensive range, including not only red and white wines, but also fruit brandies and juices.

Allez Hop off to bed in Haute-Nendaz, chez Marie-Odile Derrider

Brand new and beautifully designed, Nînda Hotel reinvents the mountain chalet with understated yet elegant décor, rooms equipped with mini-kitchens, a healthy café-restaurant and even yoga classes (…) Read more

Allez Hop off to bed in Monthey, chez Patrick Delarive 

An estate famous for its Whitepods: 18 white geodesic domes set in a meadow, perfect for anyone looking for an unusual yet luxurious place to stay. More recently, the estate has also added spacious contemporary chalets capable of accommodating families and groups of friends (…) Read more 

Allez Hop off to bed in Champéry

A charming chalet hotel opened in 1916, where a warm, family-friendly atmosphere has been carefully preserved. Today it consists of two buildings: the Vieux Chalet, renovated in 2015, and the Chalet Neuf, built in 2020.

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Allez Hop off to bed in Sierre

Surrounded by vineyards, this guesthouse looks like a miniature medieval château. The décor is simple, but the welcome is genuinely warm and family-oriented, provided by the family who own both the vineyard and the winery of the same name. It is also an opportunity to sample, nearby in their shop, their extensive range of Valais wines.

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Allez Hop off to table in Champéry, chez Antoine Gonnet

Champéry's gastronomic restaurant, alongside a casual café-bar, is run with great talent by chef Antoine Gonnet, who brings a modern touch — without going too far — to the traditional repertoire of mountain cuisine (…) Read more 

Allez Hop off to table in Champéry, at the RED

Located at the top of the cable car, this brasserie with its enormous terrace is ideal for an après-ski or après-hike stop, or simply for enjoying the breathtaking views from 2,000 metres while indulging in generous, flavourful food prepared entirely on site.

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Allez Hop à table in Haute-Nendaz, chez Clara Laurent & Adrien Lopez 

Taken over by a young couple, this modest-looking little establishment hides a surprise: ambitious, accomplished gastronomic cuisine from chef Adrien Lopez, presented with charm and professionalism by Clara Laurent in one of the intimate dining rooms. An unexpected, timeless experience, far removed from clichés (…) Read more

Allez Hop off to table in Sion, at Guérite Brûlefer 

Vegans, look away! While it is perfectly possible to do without meat here, going without cheese would be much harder. Accessible only on foot and perched on the hillside among the vineyards, this traditional mountain hut serves raclette accompanied by wines from Les Celliers de Sion. Several types of cheese from different producers are available, and the atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried — or tranquille, as the owner likes to say!

Address : Bisse de Clavau Via Rue du Mont, Champlan, Sion

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Allez Hop off to table in Sierre, at Château de Villa 

Raclette once again, this time served in five courses, each featuring cheeses from different producers, each with its own distinctive character. A quick lesson in the etiquette of Valais raclette tasting: charcuterie is always served separately and eaten at the beginning of the meal. The raclette itself comes later, accompanied only by potatoes and gherkins.

Consider yourself warned! Château de Villa is also the perfect place to stock up, with its shop offering almost every wine produced in the canton.

Address : Rue de Ste-Catherine 4, Sierre

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For more information, please contact the Swiss Tourist Office and the Valais Tourist Office.