Le Coquillage

On Hugo Roellinger’s menu, there is a dish called “Look at the Sun.” Out of context, it might sound like a slightly pretentious, affected injunction. And yet, seated at Le Coquillage, it makes perfect sense. All it takes is to look at the landscape framed by the large windows of this beautiful 1920s villa. All it takes is to recall that walk along the seashore, face turned into the wind, senses fully awake — a ritual one should absolutely perform before any dinner — to grasp its meaning. Because everything here is connected to what surrounds us and nourishes us: the sun, of course, but above all the sea, in its diversity, its moods, its movements. It is the first ingredient. From his father, Olivier Roellinger, Hugo inherited far more than an already renowned house. In keeping with a demanding and responsible culinary philosophy, he has reinvented this legacy, imagining a cuisine that has become entirely unique and unmistakably his own. It is composed exclusively of products from the sea — fish, crustaceans, shellfish, algae, drawn from the landscape right before our eyes, which he dresses with those exotic flavors that plunged the entire family into the world of spices (his sister Mathilde runs the spice house founded by their father). Each dish rings true, both in form and in substance: the colors are magnificent, the plating poetic. Every plate, every object, every detail is chosen with coherence, and although the three stars awarded in 2025 could have distorted the proposition, pretension never finds its way to the table. This is due to Hugo’s personality, but also to that of Marine, his partner, who ensures that the word hospitality truly has meaning. And this hospitality does not stop at the gastronomic restaurant, but extends to all the accommodations on the estate: the rooms at Château Richeux (the villa), the Kled (“shelters from the wind” in Breton) at the Ferme du Vent, wooden and stone gîtes generously open to the sea.It is also a collection of places based in Cancale: a small hotel, Les Rimains, gîtes, a bistro, and the pastry shop Grain de Vanille.