Lille, from masterpieces to meals

Lille's status as a cultural city became an official reality in 2004 when it was named European Capital of Culture. This was the result of a major project undertaken by the Grand Lille Committee to present the Lille metropolitan area in a more positive light than that of a struggling industrial city. This ambition was supported by significant cultural institutions which, even in the early 2000s, had already placed the metropolitan area on the wish list of art and architecture enthusiasts. The recent reopening of the LaM Museum in Villeneuve-d’Ascq, following renovations, is the perfect opportunity to visit or revisit these classics, which are worth the trip both for their content and their setting. Add a few spots for food connoisseurs, and you have a truly delightful combination!

Allez Hop, let’s do a museum round!

• LaM, Lille Métropole Musée d'art moderne, d'art contemporain et d'art brut

Direction Villeneuve-d’Ascq and the LaM, which has just reopened after a year and a half of renovation work to meet current standards and optimize its exhibition spaces. At first glance, nothing seems to have changed for this museum, opened in 1983, and delightful for anyone who loves modernist and brutalist-inspired architecture. Originally, it was created to house the collection of textile industrialists Geneviève and Jean Masurel, much of which came from an inheritance left by the collector’s uncle, the astute Roger Dutilleul, one of the first to take an interest in the Cubists. From this corpus of modern works, the collection has grown, particularly with an “art brut” section, thanks to more than 3,500 works donated by the association L’Aracine. In its permanent galleries, the works are brought into dialogue through a cross-disciplinary vision. The visitor path is free and inventive, and one moves with delight from a Modigliani painting to Buren’s Trois Cabanes éclatées, from a room dedicated to Fernand Léger to another entirely taken over by Miriam Cahn. The opening exhibition devoted to Kandinsky (on view until June 14) is a true user’s guide for anyone wishing to understand the sources of an abstraction that ultimately reveals his immense curiosity—not only for spirituality, but also for science and mathematics. A special mention goes to designer Clémence Seillès, who developed a collection of benches and seating made from recycled materials. Finally, the sculpture garden (Calder, Deacon, Dedeigne, Picasso…) has been enhanced and replanted. The LaM definitely deserves a full day’s visit, more so as you can dine at the café or at the restaurant Pigments, run by the region’s beloved chef, Florent Ladeyn.

1 All. du Musée, Villeneuve-d'Ascq

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• La Piscine, Musée d'art et d'industrie André Diligent de Roubaix

One never grows tired of it. Arriving before the pool of La Piscine in Roubaix is always a delight, especially in the late afternoon when the sun’s rays shine through the immense colored stained-glass window that overlooks the swimming pool. But beyond this iconic image of a basin lined with sculptures, La Piscine is a succession of large galleries filled with paintings, sculptures, and ceramics, bearing witness to the region’s former vitality and to the wealth of the industrialists who collected these 19th- and 20th-century works.

Not to be missed: the wing dedicated to the Groupe de Roubaix, northern artists of international reputation, as well as the reconstructed (and somewhat hidden) studio of sculptor Henri Bouchard. Until July 5, 2026, La Piscine is presenting an exhibition devoted to another regional icon: La Redoute, featuring archives, advertisements, catalogues, objects, and clothing attesting to the brand’s visionary spirit.

23 Rue de l'Espérance, Roubaix

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• Villa Cavrois

It’s impossible to leave Roubaix without stopping in neighboring Croix, where Villa Cavrois is located, built in the late 1920s by architect Mallet-Stevens for the Roubaix textile industrialist Paul Cavrois. Saved from decay, it was listed as a historic monument in 1990 — a well-deserved status, as it is a total work of art, designed down to the tiniest detail by the architect, foreshadowing a modern way of life, certainly luxurious but entirely stripped of anything superfluous. One walks through its living spaces as if the family had just left, astonished by the quality of the light, the ingenuity of the layout, and the simplicity and functionality of the furniture. A lesson in architecture and design whose principles remain entirely relevant today.

60 Av. du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Croix

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Allez Hop off to bed, chez Georges Laurent & Diane Van der Putt

This is not Georges’s first experience: back in 2021, in this very same location, he opened his restaurant Épicé, centered around spices and world cuisines. Before that, he trained at Les Toquées, founded by his mother Marie (also a restaurant and guesthouse), where he developed his taste… Continue reading

Allez Hop off to table, chez Florent Ladeyn

He wouldn’t have missed this opportunity for anything, says chef Florent Ladeyn, who recalls visiting the LaM museum with his father as a child and teenager. A choice that feels obvious, it is hard to imagine anyone else investing this place with such coherence… Continue reading

Allez Hop off to Table, chez Valentina Giaccobe & Julien Ingau-Jaubert 

Above the wood-clad façade, you can still see the sign of the previous occupant, Le Vinci, a PMU bar well known in the neighborhood. This is where Valentina Giacobbe and Julien Ingaud-Jaubert opened Ginko, their first restaurant — a place that has nothing to do with a PMU!... Continue reading

Allez Hop, let's indulge, chez Iris Rouche, Germain Decreton & Rayane Rebouh

Off to Neja, for a delicious break in this pastry shop opened by a dynamic trio who met in the kitchens of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Pré Catelan in Paris and continued their journey at Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower. A perfectly complementary trio: the creative Iris Rouche, the technically skilled Germain Decreton (both pastry chefs), and the loquace Rayane Rebouh in front of the house. Barely open since early 2025, their pastry shop has already received numerous accolades, named "Opening of the Year" by La Liste and "Revelation of the Year" by Fou de Pâtisserie for their signature entremets, Louise de Bettignies (named after the square where Neja is located). But the most important thing is to experience the quality of their creations for yourself. They only offer five or six, and they are perfectly balanced, not too sweet, and beautifully executed. Enjoy them on-site (note that there are only a few tables) in a space bathed in light and good cheer.

16 Place Louise de Bettignies, Lille

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Allez Hop, let's indulge, chez Ingrid & Romain

Off to Oxalis and Bergamote to slip some biscuits into your suitcase. They undoubtedly make the best in the city, perhaps even in the region, and we'd almost dare say in France. In fact, you can find them in several shops across the country. However, if you want to understand Ingrid and Romain's approach and taste their other products, you should visit their Lille café-shop for a soup at lunchtime, or a tea or coffee accompanied by a cookie, a slice of sugar pie or crumble, or a brioche. Simple, unfussy treats made from raw, organic ingredients—the kind you dream of making at home but could never quite pull off.

44 Rue d'Angleterre, Lille

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Allez Hop, let's indulge, chez Aurèle Mestré

Off to Mestré to grab a cone of fries. But not just any fries: these ones won the French Fries World Championships in 2023. And while we’re at it, let’s pair them with a Maroilles sausage (yes, really), or croquettes - a different flavor every day: shrimp, chorizo, duck, mushroom… As soon as it opens (12 p.m. and 7 p.m.), a line forms in front of this storefront, which has become an iconic spot in the Wazemmes neighborhood. But no worries, service is extremely fast and efficient, run by a young and friendly team.

305 Rue Léon Gambetta, Lille

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Allez Hop, let me find out

Office du Tourisme de la Métropole Européenne de Lille, Hello Lille

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Credits photos :
(1) Photo -souvenir : Daniel Buren, Les trois Cabanes éclatées en une ou La Cabane éclatée aux trois peaux , travail situé, 2000. © DB / Adagp, Paris, 2026. Collection du LaM. Photo : Nicolas Verbauwen / Hello Lille destination
(2) Nicolas Verbauwen/Hello Lille destination
(3) Vue de l'exposition Kandinsky au LaM avec Vassily Kandinsky, Mit dem schwarzen Bogen [Avec l'arc noir], 1912. Donation de Mme Nina Kandinsky en 1976. Collection Centre Pompidou, Paris. Musée national d'art moderne - Centre de création industrielle. Domaine public. Photo : Nicolas Verbauwen / Hello Lille destination