Prévelle

Finally, he is completely at home. Finally, he is undoubtedly ready to deliver his cuisine, with no constraints other than those of an entrepreneur who is committed to success. Some were lucky enough to know him when he was at the helm of the Plaza-Athénée restaurant in Paris, where Alain Ducasse was debuting his vision of naturalness; Others were able to taste his meticulous cuisine when he took over the kitchen at Domaine de Primard in Normandy (Collection Domaines de Fontenille). So here he is (at last) at home, in the heart of the city's most prestigious neighborhood, between the ministries and the National Assembly. It could have been a bit serious, even stuffy. Far from it. Light decor, blond wood, no tablecloths, extremely sober tableware that fades into the background and serves only the cuisine, 30 covers upstairs, hidden from view—the kitchen is open, on the ground floor. At Prévelle, the plates are perfectly presented, going straight to the point, without any fuss or exaggeration, essentially (but not exclusively) vegetable-based, and offering perfectly mastered flavors and cooking techniques. From start to finish, you can feel the immense respect that Romain Meder, as a good craftsman, has for the producers he works with.